Cultivating and Fishing in the Era of Climate Change

Sixty-five million years ago, at the time of the dinosaurs, temperatures were 10 degrees higher than they are now and there was more CO₂ in the atmosphere. Today, “temperatures are increasing faster than we have seen in thousands of years,” said Eva Moreno, Paleoclimatologist at the Paris Natural History Museum.

The ocean plays a key role in mitigating climate change as it captures CO₂ from the atmosphere, acting as a carbon sink, and also absorbs excess heat from the earth, lowering temperatures. “Without our oceans, NY could reach 70°C (160°F),” Moreno added. Nevertheless, marine heat waves – periods of five days or more when temperatures exceed their average – have been seen for the past 30 years, and they are devastating to ecosystems, but they are not the only threat to aquatic life, as overfishing threatens populations, which results in fewer predators and certain species proliferating in excess.

Climate change affects everyone, including farmers. During the panel, Fabien Dumont, Market gardener from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence explained how he and his wife have done extensive research on different vegetables adapted to various climates, including ancient varieties, tomatoes from Sicily and round cucumbers. “When I started, the climate was fine, but now seasons are changing unpredictably, but thanks to the work I have done, I can choose the variety of tomato I know will grow best in those conditions.” His family is thus able to supply the local community with diverse and flavorful produce.

Artisanal fishermen like Sylvain Pagnon, who uses his mechanical engineering degree to help the environment, go to great lengths to ensure their activities are respectful of the delicate balance within our oceans. He learned the trade from his father, who also has a doctorate in ecology. “In the Mediterranean,” he said, “the artisanal fishermen limit fishing zones. We make decisions together and adapt to the fish we find, just as growers adapt to seasons.” As a community, they monitor fish populations, not capturing species with reduced numbers or during their reproduction. “Red tuna, quotas saved the species. It is very positive,” he added.

Another way to protect species is by sustainably farming them and replenishing populations, which is the mission of Christophe Maier at Lagosta in Monaco. Using advanced technology, Lagosta re-creates the ideal environment for European spiny lobsters to thrive and provides them with high quality organic food, which results in a sixfold increase in natural repopulation rate. “Lobsters are extremely sensitive in terms of their environment and food. It is important to know the animal and its needs,” he says. After a certain period, Lagosta releases the crustaceans into the Mediterranean with a digital tag on their shells so they can follow their well-being. “We put great care into making sure this species’ population will survive sustainably in the wild.” The group also recycles the exoskeletons shed by the lobsters during their maturation. 

Restaurants and consumers can also have an impact, according to Elisabeth Vallet, Director of Ethic Océan, which provides scientific data establishing purchasing recommendations to help professional buyers choose species that are not overexploited. “86% of fish on the market are the result of overfishing, but science allows us to establish purchasing recommendations to choose fish that are not overexploited. Everyone can verify the information from their fish supplier or restaurant to ensure they are consuming responsibly,” she asserted. By choosing a species of fish that is more abundant in the oceans, looking to small fish, deep-sea fish or even river fish, and adapting selections throughout the year, consumers can alleviate the strain on our oceans, and chefs can influence countless people with their menus. All this information is accessible at guidedesespeces.org/fr, as well as via a mobile app. 

While food professionals like Pagnon, Maeir and Vallet are making a difference for the better, there are still some fishermen who do not respect these responsible practices, which makes it necessary to have formal government regulations to ensure everyone follows the rules.