Committing to Sustainable Gastronomy

Labels like Écotable are a way restaurateurs can showcase their commitments to sustainability, but Fanny Giansetto reminds us, “The Écotable label is only a small part of what we do. We want to mobilize the masses and do so by helping restaurants understand their environmental impact and showing them ways they can adopt sustainable practices affordably.” She pointed out that often, restaurateurs have the desire to be sustainable but worry the transition would be costly. Écotable helps them understand viable changes they can make. “By reducing food waste, one can increase turnover by 30%,” was an example she cited. Écotable has over 200 criteria from sustainable, organic products, to food waste, waste in general, and energy consumption to parameters that measure carbon impact and biodiversity. “We try to have the most holistic vision possible,” she added. 

Another label has gained tremendous momentum as of late. “With the Green Michelin Star, we recognize the pioneers – chefs with the bravery to dare, always moving forward on a new sustainable path. They are the ones who will write the next chapter of gastronomy.” said Elisabeth Boucher-Anselin. Today, 3,000 restaurants have a Michelin Star and 458 have Green Michelin Star – and sometimes, there is no overlap between the two. The emblematic guide had been searching for a way to reward bold chefs around the world taking large strides for the advancement of sustainable gastronomy. “We have never been so solicited by establishments who want to get this distinction. The Green Star has created a federated community among restaurateurs, and clients become ambassadors of the approach,” she added.  

Speaking of communities, Alexandre Drouard of Terroirs d’Avenir promotes small-scale agriculture. “We have built a network of 300 rural farmers in France, Italy and Spain. If we want to be able to continue to cook and have an impact, the grower is the first link in the chain,” he stated. His approach is an excellent illustration of Ducasse’s conclusion that “going back to naturality is better for the health of people and the planet. We need to re-establish a connection between the consumer, restaurateurs.”

This philosophy has taken hold amongst chefs and restaurateur around the world, including in Rwanda, where Dieuveil Malonga has made it his mission to connect with the culinary traditions throughout the continent. “Many countries in Africa do not have cookbooks. I spent two years traveling the continent, recording recipes passed down through oral tradition, and keep them alive by training young aspiring chefs.” After living in France and Germany, Malonga visited 48 African countries, collected 518 jars of seeds, and fell in love with Rwanda for the richness of its volcanic soils, on which chemicals have never been used.

Indeed, a relationship between supplier, restaurateur, consumer and earth completes the circle. Only by understanding and respecting each link in the chain and supporting each other can we ensure the future of gastronomy.